“Villefranche-sur-Mer is a little bit of paradise on a very busy stretch of coastline,” Travel + Leisure A-List Advisor Philip Haslett of French Promise tells T+L.

Yet, since Villefranche is packed tightly into a curve of the waterfront, travelers who drive along the tiered coastal roads that connect Nice and Monaco often miss it. “It’s iconic, and yet unknown,” says Haslett.

If you’re looking for a base on the French Riviera that’s more relaxed than Monaco and less busy than Nice, yet still within easy reach of both, Villefranche is your spot. Plus, it still has that old-school glamor that the Côte d’Azur is so well-known for.

Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip to Villefranche-sur-Mer.